The Twelve Days of Christmas – Grinch Inspired Crochet Pattern
Materials Needed
1. Yarn
Main Yarn: Caron One-Pound in Limeade. You will need at least half of this large skein, approximately 400 yards.
Alternative Yarn: For my second version shown above, I couldn't find the Limeade color, so I chose I Love This Yarn in Keylime.
Weight: 7 oz / 199 g
Length: 355 yards / 325 m
I had a good-sized ball leftover, but I would plan on using most of a skein for this project.
2. Additional Yarn Colors
You will also need small scraps of:
White yarn.
Black or dark green yarn for the eyes.
For the Santa Coat and Hat (optional):
If you are also making the Santa Coat and Hat, you will need:
Red yarn: Red Heart in Cherry Red.
White yarn: Red Heart Hygge in Snow.
You won't need much of either of these two yarns/colors.
3. Safety Eyes
I chose to use safety eyes for this project and used a 20 mm size.
Hooks and Additional Supplies
1. Crochet Hooks
G / 4 mm hook: Used for the main project.
I / 5 mm hook: Used for the Santa Coat and Hat.
2. Optional Supplies
2 foam rollers like these. Available at most all $1 stores.
Stitch Glossary
Here are the abbreviations and their meanings used throughout this pattern:
| Stitch | Abbreviation / Meaning |
|---|---|
| Chain | Ch |
| Single Crochet | SC |
| Increase Single Crochet | Inc Sc – make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated |
| Invisible Decrease | inv. dec. – an invisible single crochet decrease |
| Treble Crochet | Tr |
| Slip Stitch | sl st |
| Finish Off | FO |
Hints and Tips for Stuffies, Ragdolls, and Amigurumi
1. Spiral Crochet
I crochet in the "spiral" for this project and for most of my work. This prevents the joining seam that can occur with crochet.
What that means is that you don't join each round with a slip stitch and then chain 1, but rather keep on working the next stitch – the first one from the previous row.
It may help to use a stitch marker to designate the beginning of the previous round.
For example:
If your round calls for 30 SC stitches, then SC 30 around, but instead of slip stitching to the first stitch and then chaining one, SC in the first stitch and keep on going for your next round.
2. Tip: Counting
I also tend to open the calculator on my phone and keep track of "rounds" and stitches by my calculator.
For example:
If I need to do 4 rounds of 36 stitches, I will do:
4 × 36 = 144
on my calculator and then subtract as I go.
So, I might do 30 SC and stop (144 - 30), get up and do something, and come back and so forth until I get done.
This keeps me on track and keeps me from having to use and move stitch markers.
I only advise this if you are good with counting and have no distractions.
3. Invisible Decrease
Doing an invisible single crochet decrease is one of the best things I ever learned!
There are many online tutorials on this, so look up doing the invisible decrease single crochet online and you will not be sorry.
Essentially, you will be doing your single crochet decrease in only the front loops of the crochets being decreased.
Pattern Notes and Instructions
1. Understanding Pattern Instructions
If I write 2sc, it means make 2 SC in the same space.
But writing sc 2 means make a SC in the next 2 stitches.
2. Pattern Construction
This pattern starts at the feet and works up the leg.
You will make two legs, but DO NOT FINISH OFF the second leg.
They will get joined and then the body gets added.
The only thing that gets sewed on are the arms.
3. Finished Size
My finished Grinch inspired stuffie measures 26” tall.
If you use different materials, I cannot guarantee that your finished project will look like mine or be as large.
4. Working in Continuous Spiral
I work almost exclusively in a continuous spiral for all my work.
I do not join. I do not chain up – so, that is not written in the pattern.
If you prefer to work that way, please do however you are most comfortable.
Use a stitch marker for this so you don't lose your place.
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Crochet Pattern – Foot and Leg
Starting the Foot
Chain 2.
R1: Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Increasing Rounds
R2: Make 1 SC in each stitch around (6).
R3: 2 SC in the first stitch, one SC in the rest of the stitches (7).
R4: Make 1 SC in each stitch around (7).
R5: 2 SC in the first stitch, one SC in the rest of the stitches (8).
R6: Make 1 SC in each stitch around (8).
R7: 2 SC in the first stitch, one SC in the rest of the stitches (9).
R8: Make 1 SC in each stitch around (9).
R9: (Make 1 SC in next 2 stitches, make 2 SC in the next stitch) repeat around (12).
R10: (Make 1 SC in next 3 stitches, make 2 SC in the next stitch) repeat around (15).
R11: (Make 1 SC in next 4 stitches, make 2 SC in the next stitch) repeat around (18).
R12: (Make 1 SC in next 2 stitches, make 2 SC in the next stitch) repeat around (24).
Straight Rounds
R13–R17: 5 rounds: Make 1 SC in each stitch around (24).
If working in the spiral that is 120 stitches.
Decreasing Rounds
R18: (Make 1 SC in next 2 stitches, make an inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (18).
R19–R20: 2 rounds: Make 1 SC in each stitch around (18).
Spiral count is 36 stitches.
Stuffing: Start stuffing and stuff as needed.
R21: SC in the next 10 stitches, inv dec over the next 8 SC (this is 4 inv dec) (14).
R22: SC in the next 10 stitches, inv dec over the next 4 SC (this is 2 inv dec) (12).
These two decrease stitches are in the decrease stitches from the row before.
Lightly stuff foot.
R23: SC in the next 8 stitches, inv dec 2 over the next 4 SC (10).
R24: Inv dec, SC in the next 6, inv dec (8).
Continuing the Leg
R25–R26: Make 1 SC in each stitch around (8).
Note: If you are choosing to use foam rollers to help the foot bend up, please check your opening here to make sure your roller will fit.
Mine was an exact fit, but if you have a tighter gauge or are using different materials, you may need to stop the decrease above at R23 and skip the last decrease.
R27: (2 SC, SC 3) * (10).
R28: SC in each stitch around (10).
R28: (2 SC, SC 4) * (12).
R29–R30: SC in each stitch around (12).
Foam Roller Insertion:
Insert your roller here if you are using one, as it may be difficult later.
I just twisted around and it went in like a bolt.
Leg – Continuing the Pattern
Straight Rounds
R31–R48: You are now going to work straight with no increases or decreases for 18 rows.
That is 12 stitches around for 18 rows.
For spiral crochet that is 216 stitches.
Increasing the Leg
R49: (SC 3, inc SC) repeat around (15).
Upper Leg – Straight Rounds
R50–R59: You are now going to work straight with no increases or decreases for 10 rows.
That is 15 stitches around for 10 rows.
For spiral crochet that is 150 stitches.
For the First Leg Only: Finish with a slip stitch and cut yarn.
Stuffing: Stuff the top of the leg (quad) very well.
Joining the Two Legs
After finishing the second leg, do not fasten off.
Figure out the shape of your legs/feet and how you want them to point/turn/stand on your finished piece, and hold them together.
You are going to be joining them with a Chain 2.
You want that Chain 2 to be in the middle of the inside of the legs.
So, on your second leg, you may need to either work a few extra stitches or pull back a few to join them together.
Important: Please check the position of your legs and make sure they are how you like them before you join.
Joining Instructions
You will slip stitch in the stitch that your Chain 2 will start on the second leg.
Chain 2.
Slip stitch on the other leg on the mirror side.
Body
Round 1 – Joining the Legs and Starting the Body
R1: After joining the legs, you will crochet evenly around each leg and in the Chain 2 – both on the front and back of the Chain 2.
That will give you 34 stitches:
15 stitches on each leg.
4 stitches in the Chain 2 space (front and back).
Rounds 2–3 – Straight Rounds
Rounds 2–3: SC around in each stitch.
Round 2: (34)
Round 3: (34)
Round 4 – Increasing
R4: On this round you need to make 2 inc SC evenly.
I chose to make one inc SC on each side of the body (36).
Shaping the Tummy
Okay, this is where you need to start shaping the tummy.
You will be doing traditional amigurumi counts as far as increases go:
36 to 42
42 to 48
etc.
But you will be making all of the increases on the stomach side.
The first step is to lay your work down and find the sides of the stomach.
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